Some of the frequently asked questions (FAQ) by new gardeners, or anyone attempting to plant anything-
Why do my plants just randomly die?
Why do my plants look funny?
Why are the leaves yellow?
Why do the leaves fall off?
What is that white stuff on my plant?
What are those little bug thingies on my plant?
Why does my plant look wilted?
Don't feel bad, we've all been there.
The truth is, none of these questions have simple answers. I will attempt to cover some of the basic areas first to ensure that everyone has a general understanding of how things work, and then i will answer the questions at the end. If you want to just skip to the end for the answers, you can, but you probably won't understand the answers properly.
Here is a summary of all the factors that affect plant growth, in order of importance. As long as Level 1 factors are met, your plant will survive just fine. You may or may not have to control the level 2 stuff, but if you do, your plant will do significantly better if any of these factors are causing problems for your plants. One thing to be aware of though - even if you have everything right, your plant can still die if any one of these factors is wrong, or for absolutely no reason. Get used to it, it happens.
- Level 1 Requirements - If these are met, your plant will grow just fine
- Game of Numbers
- Nature is not perfect. Nature fails. A lot. Nature works by creating statistical advantages for itself. If you look at any plant, you will see that is has MULTIPLE ways of procreating. Any given plant may be able to procreate through seeds, shoots, cut pieces, outgrowths from roots, division of young shoots from the main plant, etc. If you look at a plant when it creates seeds, it generally makes a LOT of seeds. This is because any previous versions of this plant that created less seeds have DIED, and were not successful at procreation. Only the strong survive. The plants that create the most seeds, have the best chances of survival.
- The purpose of all of this is to understand that seeds fail. Not every seed will grow. Do not expect every seed to grow. Even if they do grow, not every seed is perfect. Seeds can be imperfect, mutated, damaged, or just weak due to disease or poor nutrition from the mother plant.
- Plant LOTS of seeds. If you are gardening, do not plant a single seed, and then be upset that it did not grow, or that it sprouted then died. Plant 5, and hope that at least one of them will come out strong. My general rule of thumb is to multiply everything by 5. If you want 5 plants, plant 25 seeds. If you end up with too many, great! just kill off the ones you don't want, or give them to your friends, or plant them around the garden to see if there's a specific spot they like.
- Sun
- All plants need Sun - The number one single most important factor in attempting to grow anything. The sun requirements for every plant is different, but generally all plants like sunlight. The more, the better. Understanding how much sun each area of your garden gets makes all the difference between living and dead plants. You also need to understand how much sun each plant actually needs. Then it's just a matter of putting plants that require high sun in high-sun areas, and plants that like shade in Partial-Shade areas etc. Obviously, if you put a shade plant in full-sun, it will dry up and die. If you put a full-sun plant in the shade, it will grow in a funny shape, or also just whither and die.
- Cardinal Directions - The first thing you need to understand is the directions, North, South, East, and West. The sun rises in the East, and sets in the West. The sun moves. At different times of the year, the sun will be in different positions. Throughout the days, and at different times of the year, sunlight will move, shadows will move. A spot that gets sunlight today..might not get sunlight in 6 months. If you have a large wall, tree or structure nearby, watch it carefully at different times of the day/month and see where the shadow is falling.
- Determine Sun Zones - Observe your garden. Observe the sunlight. Observe the natural growth in those areas. Moss, mildew, ferns, black-soot fungus on leaves, lack of grass indicate low sun. Green grass, weeds, strong, fast, vibrant growth indicates high sun. Always observe. Learn the sun patterns. Learn which parts of your garden gets lots of sun, and which parts get a little. Classify zones of your garden into High-Sun, Medium-Sun and Low-Sun (Shade).
- Plant Sun Requirements - If you have a specific plant you want to grow, find out how much sun it needs (High, Medium, Low). Once you know how much sun it needs, it's just a matter of matching the plant to the appropriate zone.
- Control your Sun Zones - Once you understand the concept of sun zones, you can control your sun zones in your garden.
- Create High-Sun zones by cutting down unnecessary trees or bushes.
- Create Medium-Sun zones by planting light shrubs, or using sun shade fabrics or trellises
- Create Low-Sun Shade zones by planting large trees or using shade fabrics, or garden structures (arbours, statues, structures, points of interest).
- I don't know how much sun this plant needs...How do i know if my plant is getting enough sun? - If you really don't know how much sun your plant needs, your only solution is brute force. Plant them in ALL of your sun zones, and observe them.
- If you see Brown patches that look like a part of the leaf just dried up, that usually means that the plant was burned by too much sun. Whatever zone this is, is too much sun for your plant.
- If you see brown spots on the leaves, and the plant is already in the shade, chances are it's due to fungus, or some kind of pest on the plant. Fungus will only grow on a plant if it's too wet. This generally means the plant needs more sun, or less water/dampness on the leaves.
- Sometimes you might see perfectly circular or oval brown spots on the leaves of your plant. These are generally caused by two things, and have nothing to do with the sun zone. They will also have little to no effect on your plant, so you can just ignore them.
- Water droplets on the leaf concentrate sunlight, and act like tiny magnifying glasses, causing a perfectly drop-shaped burn on the leaf. Avoid getting water on the leaves of your plant during periods of high sun. If it rains during this time, there's not much you can do, but generally the sun isn't very hot while it's raining.
- A sap-sucking insect (such as a stink bug) was above the leaf, and "peed" or sprayed it's chemical stuff, that landed on the leaf, causing tiny brown spots where it lands.
- Water
- All Plants need Water - We can use the same technique for water as we used for sun. Look at your garden, and make a mental map of the water zones. High water (Wet), medium water(Damp), Low Water (Dry). Figure out how much water your plant likes, and place it in that zone. Water is a little trickier than sun though, even though you have a lot more control over it. When planting, keep this in mind. Generally, a Plant is made up of a Stalk or Trunk (that does not like to stay wet) connected to roots (which like to stay damp/wet). The trick is to keep the roots damp/wet, and the trunk dry. If the roots dry out, the plant will die. If the trunk stays too wet, it will get fungus and rot and die. Once you master this balance, you will find your plants surviving a lot more. The last part of this section (Create Dry Zones) talks about the basic technique that allows you to do this.
- Drainage and Relief - The soil type, and gradient of your land will directly affect how much water is held in the soil. Water will drain through sandy or rocky soil and become dry very quickly. Do not confuse loose soil with Sandy soil. Loose soil will also drain quickly, but can remain damp for a long time. A steep slope will cause water to run off before it is absorbed into the soil. Steep slopes are generally dry. Gentle slopes and valleys will tend to collect water. The soil in these areas will actually be able to absorb water to saturation point before the water drains away.
- Determine Water Zones - Observe your garden, observe it during the rain, observe it when you water it. Observe the way the water flows, where it moves quickly, and where it settles. Observe evidence of water levels based on the natural growth in the area. Moss, Fungus, mushrooms, wet leaves, snails, slugs, worms will indicate wet to damp areas. Dry leaves, exposed stones, gravel, sand, cracked soil, powdery soil will indicate dry areas.
- Plant Water Requirements - If you have a specific plant you want to grow, find out how much water it needs (Wet, Damp, Dry). Once you know how much water it needs, it's just a matter of matching the plant to the appropriate zone
- Control your Water Zones - Once you understand the concept of water zones, you can control the water zones in your garden.
- Create Wet Zones - Once you understand how water flows and drains in your garden, you can dig drainage ditches, trenches, ponds, or pools that allow water to collect, giving the soil in the area some time to absorb it before it escapes as run-off. With some imagination, you can get water to reach all parts of your garden by simply watering the highest point in your garden, and controlling the flow of water via an irrigation drainage system of pools and trenches. I have done this in both of my gardens with much success, and absolutely no need for sprinklers or drip irrigation. All i use is a hose that leads to the highest point in my garden, and then a network of contoured drainage ditches and mini-pools to lead the water through all parts of my garden. Once i turn the hose on, the entire garden gets watered. And no water gets on the leaves.
- Create Damp Zones - Damp zones will naturally occur around your Wet Zones. Damp zones can also be created by controlling the shade factor.
- Create Dry Zones - Create Dry zones by making small mounds or hills. One very useful technique when planting (i'm sure you've seen gardeners do this) is to dig a small circle, and put all the dirt in the center in a mound. This way you have a mound in the center that is high and dry, and a low circular ditch around the mound that will collect and hold water. If you plant in the mound, the plant gets to keep itself dry, reducing the chances of fungus and rot. However, the area right below the mound is very wet, so the plant can push its roots as deep as it wants, and drink as much as it likes. If it requires more water, it grows deeper roots. If it doesn't need much water, it will stay in the high part of the mound, and will not venture further down. Furrows and pots with saucers use this same concept.
- Soil
- Optimal Locations
- Level 2 Requirements - If these are controlled, your plant will thrive
- Pests
- Fungus
- Diseases
- Wind, Heat, Dust
- Pruning
- Fertilizer