After doing some research into the proper way to setup a pond, i am listing all of the pertinent factors that need to be taken into consideration, as there seems to be a large amount of confusion over what the ideal method is for pond preparation.
- Definition of Terms
- API Test Kit
- Used for testing levels of Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate
- Ammonia
- Produced by fish, decomposing food, and any decomposing material
- Produced by Anaerobic bacteria feeding on Nitrates
- Highly Toxic to fish
- Maintain at 0
- Nitrite
- Bacteria naturally convert Ammonia to Nitrite over time
- Slightly less toxic to fish than Ammonia
- Maintain at 0
- Nitrate
- Bacteria naturally convert Nitrite to Nitrate over time
- Least toxic to fish
- Maintain below 20mg/l, or 20ppm
- Nitrification Cycle
- http://puffernet.tripod.com/nitrogencycle.html
- Day 1-10
- Nitrosomonas bacteria are building numbers, attaching to hard surfaces,consuming Oxygen and Ammonia producing Nitrite
- Numbers double approx. every 8 hours
- Nitrosomonas appear as a reddish gel-like film
- Ammonia rises to lethal, then falls to zero as Nitrosomonas grow
- Day 11-21
- Nitrobacter bacteria become active in an Ammonia-Free environment
- Numbers double approx. every 13 hours
- Nitrobacter appear as a brownish gel-like film
- Nitrobacter are building numbers, attaching to hard surfaces, consuming Oxygen and Nitrite and producing Nitrate
- Day 22 onward
- Nitrate levels build over time dissolved in the water
- Anaerobic Bacteria consume Nitrate and Produce Ammonia and Nitrogen Gas (Inert), and possibly Hydrogen Sulfide (Very Toxic)
- Hydrogen Sulfide has the highest chance of forming if you have a gravel or sand bed deeper than 2.5 inches
- How to deal with Nitrate Levels
- Filters and Moving Water
- Filters remove floating particles that are not aesthetically pleasing
- Filters collect solid particles that will break down into ammonia (There is only a benefit if these particles, or "sludge" is regularly removed, otherwise the particles turn into ammonia inside the filter)
- The main purpose of a filter is to provide a large surface area for bacteria to colonize
- If you clean the filter too well, you remove the bacteria that are doing the conversions
- The red/brown gel-like film on all surfaces in the filter is the good bacteria
- The lumps of decaying sludge are the bad parts, just remove them, and fertilize your plants with them
- Fish sludge is twice as powerful as regular fertilizer http://theurbanfarmingguys.com/aquaponics-how-to
- Bacteria convert Ammonia, and Nitrites most efficiently in highly oxygenated water
- As the water surface is disturbed, it becomes oxygenated, and creates water currents to help mix the water layers, and increase overall oxygenation throughout the tank
- As the oxygenated water is circulated through the tank, and through the filter, the bacteria in the filter will process the Ammonia and Nitrites more efficiently than in other parts of the tank
- Water Change
- Change out 30% of the water regularly
- Use a dechlorinator
- Immediate, Effective
- Fast Growing Plants
- Mint, Basil, tomato, Melons, Watercress, Papyrus, Taro and others
- Plants will absorb Ammonia first, then Nitrites, then Nitrates
- Algae will also feed on Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates, but are not aesthetically pleasing, and are not as reliable as other plants
- How to deal with Algae
- Reduce Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate levels
- Reduce direct sunlight using cover, shade, or floating plants like duckweed, hyacinth or lettuce
- Snails, Shrimp, Catfish and other animals will eat algae
- Simple Filter Designs
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