Self Improvement

http://www.yourcoach.be/blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Dale-Carnegie-How-to-win-friends-and-influence-people.pdf


http://www.arvindguptatoys.com/arvindgupta/sagancosmos.pdf


http://www.philaletheians.co.uk/Study%20notes/Living%20the%20Life/Marcus%20Aurelius'%20Meditations%20-%20tr.%20Casaubon.pdf

In a Nutshell Fundamental Techniques In Handling People
Principle 1 - Don't criticize, condemn or complain.
Principle 2 - Give honest and sincere appreciation.
Principle 3 - Arouse in the other person an eager want.

In a Nutshell - Six Ways To Make People Like You
Principle 1 - Become genuinely interested in other people.
Principle 2 - Smile.
Principle 3 - Remember that a person's name is to that person the sweetest and most important sound in any language.
Principle 4 - Be a good listener. Encourage others to talk about themselves.
Principle 5 - Talk in terms of the other person's interests.
Principle 6 - Make the other person feel important-and do it sincerely.

In A Nutshell - Win People To Your Way Of Thinking
Principle 1 The only way to get the best of an argument is to avoid it.
Principle 2 Show respect for the other person's opinions. Never say,"You're wrong."
Principle 3 If you are wrong, admit it quickly and emphatically.
Principle 4 Begin in a friendly way.
Principle 5 Get the other person saying "yes, yes" immediately.
Principle 6 Let the other person do a great deal of the talking.
Principle 7 Let the other person feel that the idea is his or hers.
Principle 8 Try honestly to see things from the other person's point of view.
Principle 9 Be sympathetic with the other person's ideas and desires.
Principle 10 Appeal to the nobler motives.
Principle 11 Dramatize your ideas.
Principle 12 Throw down a challenge.

In A Nutshell Be A Leader
A leader's job often includes changing your people's attitudes and  behavior. Some suggestions to accomplish this:
Principle 1 - Begin with praise and honest appreciation.
Principle 2 - Call attention to people's mistakes indirectly.
Principle 3 - Talk about your own mistakes before criticizing the other person.
Principle 4 - Ask questions instead of giving direct orders.
Principle 5 - Let the other person save face.
Principle 6 - Praise the slightest improvement and praise every improvement. Be "hearty in your approbation and lavish in your praise."
Principle 7 - Give the other person a fine reputation to live up to.
Principle 8 - Use encouragement. Make the fault seem easy to correct.
Principle 9 - Make the other person happy about doing the thing you suggest.

Seven Rules For Making Your Home Life Happier
Rule 1: Don't nag.
Rule 2: Don't try to make your partner over.
Rule 3: Don't criticize.
Rule 4: Give honest appreciation.
Rule 5: Pay little attentions.
Rule 6: Be courteous.
Rule 7: Read a good book on the sexual side of marriage.

Terraform-Plant growth simulation card game

Premise and Storyline

• Each player represents an agent of natural chaos, the unpredictability of reality
• Each player's "random" action has an effect on the world, and all of the entities within it
• Papa Bois
• Gaia
• Terra
• Set
• Touia Fatuna
• Prthivi
• Nature gods from each major culture as avatars with history and descriptions

Draw Piles

• Weather
• Terrain
• Plants
• Animals
• Events

Entity Cards and attributes:

• Weather
• Intensity - Calm,Normal,Extreme
• Terrain
• Height - Low, Medium, High
• Slope - Flat, Medium, Steep
• Nutrient - Poor, Normal, Rich
• Soil - Sand, Normal, Clay
• Plants
• Growth - Slow, Normal, Vigorous
• Type - Tuber, Grass, Herb, Shrub, Tree, Vine, Aquatic
• Reproduce - Rhizome, Cutting, Seed
• Creates-Flower,Fruit
• Animals
• Type-Insects, Birds, Rodents, Beast, Humans
• Behaviour - Beneficial, Normal, Destructive
• Events
• Disease
• Fire
• Disasters
• Pollution
• Accidents
• Cosmic Disasters
• Triggered Events
• Fire
• Drought
• Flood
• Seasonal Events
• Affect weather

Weather System

• Each terrain card can only have one weather card
• During a player's turn, a player can only change the weather for other players
• Every 10 cycles (every player has played a turn=1 cycle), the season changes
• All weather cards are replaced with new cards
• All weather cards are affected by modifiers from the current seaon

Terrain System

• There is no limit to the number of terrain cards that can be placed
• A Terrain card cannot be placed without a weather card
• All terrains are placed in a giant circle, each player's edge terrains are affected by neighbouring player's terrains and weather

Win Conditions

• Dominance - One player occupies the most terrains. All terrains are occupied.
• Symbiote - One player also occupies all terrains other players occupy
• Desolation - One player causes the death of the last living creature
• Prosperity - Produce 50 fruit on your turn
• Productivity - Produce 10 items on your turn

Card Zones and Layout

Gameplay

• Maximum hand size of 7
• Turn structure
• All plants feed during other player's turns
• During your turn, you can take any 3 actions. They do not have to be different actions.
• Grow
• Expand
• Draw from a pile
• You may play any number of cards on your turn
• Events can be used at any time as long as their requirements are met
• Certain events happen automatically when certain combinations of conditions exist
• When the opposing player's turn starts, return all of your weather cards to the weather pile, shuffle, draw 3 and place in your weather zone

New Pond Observation Log

• The goal is to create a sustainable water system that does not require pumps and filters
• Tank 1 - Side of the house, low sunlight, nothing overhead
• Tank 2 - Corner of the garden further away, more sunlight, under a ficus tree
• Week 1
• Just filled 2 300 gal tanks, no bubbler, no filter, no pump
• Let them sit for 3 days to let the chlorine evaporate, then put a few floating plants - lettuce, hyacinth, foxtail.
• A few leaves fell in from the surrounding trees, i left them
• Water stayed generally clear,started to get slightly cloudy by the end of the week
• Week 2
• Added 4 fish to each pond, 2 hillaries, 2 comets, mainly to prevent mosquitoes
• Fish were very scared, and just sat at the bottom of the tank for 2-3 days
• By the 4-5th day, the fish were happily swimming about and eating normally, and showed no signs of struggling to breathe, or lack of oxygen
• One of the hillaries had babies, i counted about 8 fry hiding among the plants
• Added a few more plants, some young papyrus, a couple lilies, amazon swordplants, other random plants
• Water started turning green
• By the end of the week, the pond was completely green, and i could not see the bottom
• No algae had started growing on the sides of the tanks
• Week 3
• Water continues to get greener and more opaque each day
• Fish seem to be enjoying it more and more, and seem quite happy in the green water
• Fry are getting larger, and seem to be safe in the floating plants
• Algae still has not started growing on the sides of the tanks
• Week 4
• Water seems to have reached a stable level of green, with visibility going about 6 inches
• The second tank has also spawned Hillary fry
• I have noticed a consistent stream of bubbles coming from a bunch of foxtails i planted in a sunken pot.
• I added more floating plants for the fry, and to reduce sun exposure
• Algae has not started growing on the sides as yet
• Put some Basil stalks through the lettuce to float in an attempt to get floating Basil. 
• After 2 days, they have sprouted roots, we'll see how long they last.
• The neighbour's cat seems to have discovered the tanks, and spent a night beating up the side of the tank
• There is no way for it to get over the lip without falling in
• It gave up at around 5am, we'll keep an eye out for him
• Week 5
• Algae has stabilized at around 6-inch visibility
• Floating lettuce is noteceably yellower than when it was first introduced, suggesting that this pond does not have as much ammonia/nitrate/nitrite than the pond they came from, as would be expected
• Another possibility is that the top layer of water is relatively nutrient free, while all the nutrients are settling in the bottom layers
• Basil has survived, and started sending out roots
• Added a handful of watercress in an attempt to introduce microscopic life such as trumpet snails, brine shrimp and seed shrimp
• http://www.planetinverts.com/what_is_that_bug_in_my_aquarium.html
• The lack of circulation does not seem to currently affect the fish. They happily move through all of the layers without taking air from the surface.
• Papyrus still has not shown any signs of rooting
• Algae has not rooted onto the sides of the tanks as yet, although there seems to be some sort of mineral deposit collecting on the sides. It is sandy to the touch, and comes off easily when rubbed. Possibly calcium deposits on the waterline, but the deposits can be felt deeper under the surface all along the sides of the tank, not only on the waterline.
• Week 6
• Algae has receded in one pond to 2-foot visibility (can barely see the bottom). Almost half the surface is covered in lettuce
• The other pond under the ficus tree still has only 2-6-inch visibility. Half the pond is covered by Ficus, the other half is covered by lettuce, so it has to be the amount of leaf litter falling into the pond causing more algae than usual. Hopefully the papyrus will correct this.
• Papyrus has roots in one of the ponds, and is sending out shoots
• One overhanging Ficus tree has dropped some roots into one pond, think i'll leave them there as long as they're pulling out ammonia
• Basil has started growing, very slowly
• Algae still has not grown on any surfaces
• Watercress has been almost completely consumed by the fish, only  few strands are left
• Water lily has sent out another pad, noticeably larger than the others
• Fry are enjoying the foxtail and lettuce to hide in
• The larger fish go after the fry, but they are able to escape into the tangle of floating roots of the lettuce and foxtail
• Added Medium smooth rocks to the bottom of the tank to create some hiding place for the fish, and to hold down future plants
• Week 7
• Both tanks have spawned new fry, about 6-8 each
• Existing fry have reached about half inch length
• One tank has gone almost perfectly clear, with all algae completely receding
• We notice that this tank gets almost no sun due to the sun position at this time of year
• The other tank continues to maintain 2-inch visibility with small dead algae clumps consistently floating to the surface
• I skim off the excess and put it in the surrounding plants, they seem to be enjoying it
• Although tank 2 is under a tree, it still gets more sun than tank 1, and i have attributed the algae growth to this greater sun exposure
• The floating lettuce in both tanks seems to have gotten a shade yellower, indicating that the ammonia and nitrate levels in the top layers at least are quite low
• My foxtail that i have planted at the base by being loosely held in some rocks is my gauge for nitrates at lower levels
• So far, the foxtail also shows signs of yellowing, indicating overall low levels of ammonia and nitrates
• There is a noticeable difference in the foxtail that is growing directly underneath the lettuce. It is greener and more vibrant, suggesting it does not like direct sunlight.
• The fry live constantly in the foxtail and the unopened lily leaves
• Without this plant, i am certain none would have survived as the large fish consistently chase them if they see them
• The fry are quite capable of eluding the larger fish as long as they have their special hiding places to retreat to
• The lily has put out many new leaves, almost triple the size of the original leaves, and seems to be enjoying the deep, calm water
• Tank 2 Papyrus is growing quite aggressively, sending roots along the side of the tank straight down
• Largest sprout is almost half foot tall
• Tank 1 papyrus has shown no signs of rooting
• Ficus roots have attached themselves to the side of the tank
• Fish seem to enjoy the rocks and will swim lazily between them
• A thin layer of algae seems to be slowly growing on the sides.
• A thin layer of algae has firmly rooted itself on all the smooth rocks, suggesting that the water tanks have anti-algal coatings, as the algae grew on the rocks almost immediately

Observations and PH Levels in Fish and Ponds

http://www.gbasonline.org/disease_chart.htm

http://www.lagunakoi.com/Pond-Water-Chemistry-Water-Testing-sc-29.html

• Alkaline Water
• Hard Water,contains dissolved Mg and Ca, general Ph of 8-8.5
• Can be caused by concrete bricks, concrete, excess lime from runoff or calcium sources from shells
• Can be caused from a hard water supply
• If you have white lines on the water line, this indicates mineralization, and most likely, Alkaline water
• Promotes algae Growth
• Sunlight causes Plants to absorb CO2, increasing the alkalinity of the water
• Ammonia is Alkaline
• Nitrite is slightly alkaline (depends on Nitrite, but generally is alkaline)
• Nitrate is slightly alkaline (depends on Nitrate, but generally is alkaline)
• Caused by Decaying material and fish sludge
• Acidic Water
• Rain water, contains dissolved CO2 general Ph of 6-6.5
• Soft Water, slimy feeling when you wash off soap
• Adsence of sunlight causes plants to stop absorbing CO2, increasing the acidity of the water
• Chlorine in Water
• Fish turn upside down when you add new water
• Fish start "peeing" white strings that dissolve
• Fish turn pale
• Fish appear to be struggling for breath, or struggling to swim
• Brown Gills
• Fish start to dart around
• Water smells of Chlorine
• 
  
• Ammonia
• Water may be whitish cloudy (distinct from greenish cloudy of algae)
• 
  

Water Tank Pond - Nitrification Cycle, Nitrogen Cycle, Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate

I recently acquired two 600gal water tanks, and decided to cut them in half, and make a couple 300gal garden ponds.
After doing some research into the proper way to setup a pond, i am listing all of the pertinent factors that need to be taken into consideration, as there seems to be a large amount of confusion over what the ideal method is for pond preparation.

• Definition of Terms
• API Test Kit
• Used for testing levels of Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate
• Ammonia
• Produced by fish, decomposing food, and any decomposing material
• Produced by Anaerobic bacteria feeding on Nitrates
• Highly Toxic to fish
• Maintain at 0
• Nitrite
• Bacteria naturally convert Ammonia to Nitrite over time
• Slightly less toxic to fish than Ammonia
• Maintain at 0
• Nitrate
• Bacteria naturally convert Nitrite to Nitrate over time
• Least toxic to fish
• Maintain below 20mg/l, or 20ppm
• Nitrification Cycle
• http://puffernet.tripod.com/nitrogencycle.html
• Day 1-10
• Nitrosomonas bacteria are building numbers, attaching to hard surfaces,consuming Oxygen and Ammonia producing Nitrite
• Numbers double approx. every 8 hours
• Nitrosomonas appear as a reddish gel-like film
• Ammonia rises to lethal, then falls to zero as Nitrosomonas grow
• Day 11-21
• Nitrobacter bacteria become active in an Ammonia-Free environment
• Numbers double approx. every 13 hours
• Nitrobacter appear as a brownish gel-like film
• Nitrobacter are building numbers, attaching to hard surfaces, consuming Oxygen and Nitrite and producing Nitrate
• Day 22 onward
• Nitrate levels build over time dissolved in the water
• Anaerobic Bacteria consume Nitrate and Produce Ammonia and Nitrogen Gas (Inert), and possibly Hydrogen Sulfide (Very Toxic)
• Hydrogen Sulfide has the highest chance of forming if you have a gravel or sand bed deeper than 2.5 inches 
• http://www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2008/11/hydrogen-sulfides.html
• How to deal with Nitrate Levels
• Filters and Moving Water
• Filters remove floating particles that are not aesthetically pleasing
• Filters collect solid particles that will break down into ammonia (There is only a benefit if these particles, or "sludge" is regularly removed, otherwise the particles turn into ammonia inside the filter)
• The main purpose of a filter is to provide a large surface area for bacteria to colonize 
• If you clean the filter too well, you remove the bacteria that are doing the conversions
• The red/brown gel-like film on all surfaces in the filter is the good bacteria
• The lumps of decaying sludge are the bad parts, just remove them, and fertilize your plants with them
• Fish sludge is twice as powerful as regular fertilizer http://theurbanfarmingguys.com/aquaponics-how-to
• Bacteria convert Ammonia, and Nitrites most efficiently in highly oxygenated water
• As the water surface is disturbed, it becomes oxygenated, and creates water currents to help mix the water layers, and increase overall oxygenation throughout the tank
• As the oxygenated water is circulated through the tank, and through the filter, the bacteria in the filter will process the Ammonia and Nitrites more efficiently than in other parts of the tank
• Water Change
• Change out 30% of the water regularly
• Use a dechlorinator
• Immediate, Effective
• Fast Growing Plants
• Mint, Basil, tomato, Melons, Watercress, Papyrus, Taro and others
• Plants will absorb Ammonia first, then Nitrites, then Nitrates
• Algae will also feed on Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates, but are not aesthetically pleasing, and are not as reliable as other plants
• How to deal with Algae
• Reduce Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate levels
• Reduce direct sunlight using cover, shade, or floating plants like duckweed, hyacinth or lettuce
• Snails, Shrimp, Catfish and other animals will eat algae
• Simple Filter Designs
• http://www.koiclay.com/diy/pg5.htm

All the things you need to know about Plants FAQ

Here is a list of all of the most important things you need to know about plants. If you are thinking of starting a garden, or growing ANYTHING, these are all things that will shed some light on those mysterious plants. Everything you need to know about plants is contained on this page.

Some of the frequently asked questions (FAQ) by new gardeners, or anyone attempting to plant anything-
Why do my plants just randomly die?
Why do my plants look funny?
Why are the leaves yellow?
Why do the leaves fall off?
What is that white stuff on my plant?
What are those little bug thingies on my plant?
Why does my plant look wilted?

Don't feel bad, we've all been there.
The truth is, none of these questions have simple answers. I will attempt to cover some of the basic areas first to ensure that everyone has a general understanding of how things work, and then i will answer the questions at the end. If you want to just skip to the end for the answers, you can, but you probably won't understand the answers properly.

Here is a summary of all the factors that affect plant growth, in order of importance. As long as Level 1 factors are met, your plant will survive just fine. You may or may not have to control the level 2 stuff, but if you do, your plant will do significantly better if any of these factors are causing problems for your plants. One thing to be aware of though - even if you have everything right, your plant can still die if any one of these factors is wrong, or for absolutely no reason. Get used to it, it happens.

1. Level 1 Requirements - If these are met, your plant will grow just fine
1. Game of Numbers
1. Nature is not perfect. Nature fails. A lot. Nature works by creating statistical advantages for itself. If you look at any plant, you will see that is has MULTIPLE ways of procreating. Any given plant may be able to procreate through seeds, shoots, cut pieces, outgrowths from roots, division of young shoots from the main plant, etc. If you look at a plant when it creates seeds, it generally makes a LOT of seeds. This is because any previous versions of this plant that created less seeds have DIED, and were not successful at procreation. Only the strong survive. The plants that create the most seeds, have the best chances of survival. 
2. The purpose of all of this is to understand that seeds fail. Not every seed will grow. Do not expect every seed to grow. Even if they do grow, not every seed is perfect. Seeds can be imperfect, mutated, damaged, or just weak due to disease or poor nutrition from the mother plant.
3. Plant LOTS of seeds. If you are gardening, do not plant a single seed, and then be upset that it did not grow, or that it sprouted then died. Plant 5, and hope that at least one of them will come out strong. My general rule of thumb is to multiply everything by 5. If you want 5 plants, plant 25 seeds. If you end up with too many, great! just kill off the ones you don't want, or give them to your friends, or plant them around the garden to see if there's a specific spot they like.
2. Sun
1. All plants need Sun - The number one single most important factor in attempting to grow anything. The sun requirements for every plant is different, but generally all plants like sunlight. The more, the better. Understanding how much sun each area of your garden gets makes all the difference between living and dead plants. You also need to understand how much sun each plant actually needs. Then it's just a matter of putting plants that require high sun in high-sun areas, and plants that like shade in Partial-Shade areas etc. Obviously, if you put a shade plant in full-sun, it will dry up and die. If you put a full-sun plant in the shade, it will grow in a funny shape, or also just whither and die.
1. Cardinal Directions - The first thing you need to understand is the directions, North, South, East, and West. The sun rises in the East, and sets in the West. The sun moves. At different times of the year, the sun will be in different positions. Throughout the days, and at different times of the year, sunlight will move, shadows will move. A spot that gets sunlight today..might not get sunlight in 6 months. If you have a large wall, tree or structure nearby, watch it carefully at different times of the day/month and see where the shadow is falling. 
2. Determine Sun Zones - Observe your garden. Observe the sunlight. Observe the natural growth in those areas. Moss, mildew, ferns, black-soot fungus on leaves, lack of grass indicate low sun. Green grass, weeds, strong, fast, vibrant growth indicates high sun. Always observe. Learn the sun patterns. Learn which parts of your garden gets lots of sun, and which parts get a little. Classify zones of your garden into High-Sun, Medium-Sun and Low-Sun (Shade). 
3. Plant Sun Requirements - If you have a specific plant you want to grow, find out how much sun it needs (High, Medium, Low). Once you know how much sun it needs, it's just a matter of matching the plant to the appropriate zone. 
4. Control your Sun Zones - Once you understand the concept of sun zones, you can control your sun zones in your garden. 
1. Create High-Sun zones by cutting down unnecessary trees or bushes.
2. Create Medium-Sun zones by planting light shrubs, or using sun shade fabrics or trellises
3. Create Low-Sun Shade zones by planting large trees or using shade fabrics, or garden structures (arbours, statues, structures, points of interest). 
2. I don't know how much sun this plant needs...How do i know if my plant is getting enough sun? - If you really don't know how much sun your plant needs, your only solution is brute force. Plant them in ALL of your sun zones, and observe them.
1. If you see Brown patches that look like a part of the leaf just dried up, that usually means that the plant was burned by too much sun. Whatever zone this is, is too much sun for your plant.
2. If you see brown spots on the leaves, and the plant is already in the shade, chances are it's due to fungus, or some kind of pest on the plant. Fungus will only grow on a plant if it's too wet. This generally means the plant needs more sun, or less water/dampness on the leaves.
3. Sometimes you might see perfectly circular or oval brown spots on the leaves of your plant. These are generally caused by two things, and have nothing to do with the sun zone. They will also have little to no effect on your plant, so you can just ignore them.
1. Water droplets on the leaf concentrate sunlight, and act like tiny magnifying glasses, causing a perfectly drop-shaped burn on the leaf. Avoid getting water on the leaves of your plant during periods of high sun. If it rains during this time, there's not much you can do, but generally the sun isn't very hot while it's raining.
2. A sap-sucking insect (such as a stink bug) was above the leaf, and "peed" or sprayed it's chemical stuff, that landed on the leaf, causing tiny brown spots where it lands.
3. Water
1. All Plants need Water - We can use the same technique for water as we used for sun. Look at your garden, and make a mental map of the water zones. High water (Wet), medium water(Damp), Low Water (Dry). Figure out how much water your plant likes, and place it in that zone. Water is a little trickier than sun though, even though you have a lot more control over it. When planting, keep this in mind. Generally, a Plant is made up of a Stalk or Trunk (that does not like to stay wet) connected to roots (which like to stay damp/wet). The trick is to keep the roots damp/wet, and the trunk dry. If the roots dry out, the plant will die. If the trunk stays too wet, it will get fungus and rot and die. Once you master this balance, you will find your plants surviving a lot more. The last part of this section (Create Dry Zones) talks about the basic technique that allows you to do this. 
1. Drainage and Relief - The soil type, and gradient of your land will directly affect how much water is held in the soil. Water will drain through sandy or rocky soil and become dry very quickly. Do not confuse loose soil with Sandy soil. Loose soil will also drain quickly, but can remain damp for a long time. A steep slope will cause water to run off before it is absorbed into the soil. Steep slopes are generally dry. Gentle slopes and valleys will tend to collect water. The soil in these areas will actually be able to absorb water to saturation point before the water drains away.
2. Determine Water Zones - Observe your garden, observe it during the rain, observe it when you water it. Observe the way the water flows, where it moves quickly, and where it settles. Observe evidence of water levels based on the natural growth in the area. Moss, Fungus, mushrooms, wet leaves, snails, slugs, worms will indicate wet to damp areas. Dry leaves, exposed stones, gravel, sand, cracked soil, powdery soil will indicate dry areas.
3. Plant Water Requirements - If you have a specific plant you want to grow, find out how much water it needs (Wet, Damp, Dry). Once you know how much water it needs, it's just a matter of matching the plant to the appropriate zone
4. Control your Water Zones - Once you understand the concept of water zones, you can control the water zones in your garden.
1. Create Wet Zones - Once you understand how water flows and drains in your garden, you can dig drainage ditches, trenches, ponds, or pools that allow water to collect, giving the soil in the area some time to absorb it before it escapes as run-off. With some imagination, you can get water to reach all parts of your garden by simply watering the highest point in your garden, and controlling the flow of water via an irrigation drainage system of pools and trenches. I have done this in both of my gardens with much success, and absolutely no need for sprinklers or drip irrigation. All i use is a hose that leads to the highest point in my garden, and then a network of contoured drainage ditches and mini-pools to lead the water through all parts of my garden. Once i turn the hose on, the entire garden gets watered. And no water gets on the leaves.
2. Create Damp Zones - Damp zones will naturally occur around your Wet Zones. Damp zones can also be created by controlling the shade factor.
3. Create Dry Zones - Create Dry zones by making small mounds or hills. One very useful technique when planting (i'm sure you've seen gardeners do this) is to dig a small circle, and put all the dirt in the center in a mound. This way you have a mound in the center that is high and dry, and a low circular ditch around the mound that will collect and hold water. If you plant in the mound, the plant gets to keep itself dry, reducing the chances of fungus and rot. However, the area right below the mound is very wet, so the plant can push its roots as deep as it wants, and drink as much as it likes. If it requires more water, it grows deeper roots. If it doesn't need much water, it will stay in the high part of the mound, and will not venture further down. Furrows and pots with saucers use this same concept.
4. Soil
5. Optimal Locations
2. Level 2 Requirements - If these are controlled, your plant will thrive
1. Pests
2. Fungus
3. Diseases
4. Wind, Heat, Dust
5. Pruning
6. Fertilizer

Plant Attribute List

Plant Attributes Tracking List

ID - Id number
PName - Plant Name (in database)
ScName - Scientific Name
OtherNames - Other Names
HarvestAfter - From planting, how long does it take to first harvest
GrowthCycle - How long does it live? Any special attributes?
Sun - How much sun does it need? (Full Shade, Partial Shade, Medium Sun, Full Sun)
Soil - What kind of soil does it need? (Sandy, Rich, Loose, Clay, Rocky, Well-Drained, Normal, Poor, Wet)
Water - How much water does it need? (A Little, A Lot, Always Wet, Cannot stay Wet)
Crown - How tall does it get?
Root - How do the roots grow? (Deep, Wide, Buttress, Damages Structures, How deep? How wide?)
Benefits - Any special benefits of this plant?
Diseases - Any special diseases of this plant?
Pests - Any special pests of this plant?
Zone - What zone should it be in? (Close to house, medium from house, far from house)
Uses - How can you use this plant?
Detriments - Does this plant cause any specific detriments to anything?
SpecialNeeds - Any special needs this plant may have
Produces - What products does this plant produce?
ProcessInto - What processed goods can be produced from the raw materials obtained form this plant?
Propagation - How is this plant propagated?
Spacing - How far should it be spaced from other similar plants?
Harvesting - How / When do you harvest the products form this plant?
Storage - How do you store the products obtained from this plant?
Companions - What other plants make good companions to this one?